【泰國旅遊】充滿古老情懷的安帕瓦水上市場(一) Amphawa Floating Market (1) ⋆ 有著貓咪靈魂的AI魔法師-貓女Teresa

今天要帶大家來走跳的地方是在距離曼谷大約1個半小時車程的安帕瓦水上市場。

水上市場是這趟曼谷之旅最令我期待的行程，水上人家特殊的商業及居住模式，特別能體現當地獨一無二的人文風景。安帕瓦水上市場在遊客不多的時候，寧靜的像幅畫。水上波光粼粼，兩岸由柚木建造的房子有種古樸的美感。微微的水氣讓整條河道有股無法言喻的朦朧美。

My dear friends, today we will go to the Amphawa floating market which is about one and a half hours driving away from Bangkok. You can experience the special commercial and residential style of the aquatic people, in particular, reflect the unique cultural landscape of the local people.

When tourists haven’t accumulated yet, Amphawa is quiet and peaceful like a beautiful painting. The teak house on both sides built on the water looks with ancient and simple beauty. The water is glittering, slight water vapor makes the whole river an unspeakable hazy beauty.

這裏的木屋是由華人建造的，建築工法和傳統的泰國船屋不太一樣，所以現在這裏被列為世界文化遺產之一。這些古老的民宅，現在都已蛻變成現代經營的民宿、餐廳酒吧、咖啡廳和各種特色小店，成為一個以觀光為主要生活來源的社區。

不過安帕瓦水上市場只有星期五～星期日才開放營業，到了週末萬頭鑽動，走路都得與人摩肩擦踵，但是平日恢復寧靜後的安帕瓦，仍然保有未被觀光客肆虐的小鎮氣氛，顯得特別自在愜意。不禁讓我想到變了調的九份，忍不住有些唏噓。

The huts here are built by the Chinese. The construction technology is different from the traditional Thailand boathouse. So Amphawa is listed as one of the world’s cultural heritage. These ancient houses have been transformed into hostels restaurants, bars, cafesㄝ and small shops with a variety of characteristics. Tourism has become the main source of life in the community.

Amphawa only opens for tourists from Friday to Sunday. People are crowded everywhere and you can hardly move on Weekend. But it will turn into a small town on Weekday, you can still feel the free and easy atmosphere here.

曼谷最有名的水上市場是「丹能莎朵水上市場」，但是我卻情有獨鍾的選上了這個比較多泰國當地人會去遊覽的水上市場，目的是為了能更深入當地市井的真實生活。這是我第一次的泰國行，或許有機會多來幾趟泰國的話，我會抱著「到此一遊」的心情去看一看傳說中必去的「丹能莎朵水上市場」，~~體驗一下「卡船」的東方威尼斯~~。

「Damnoen Saduak Floating Market」is the most famous floating market at Bangkok But I have a special preference for Amphawa where more Thai locals will visit so that I can feel the real local life. If I have the chance to visit Thailand many times, maybe I will consider visiting 「Damnoen Saduak Floating Market」someday, where was thought of as Oriental Venice. See! It’s a spectacular scene to see so many boats jam together.

我們在曼谷的幾天都會住在半島酒店，所以我安排了第一天星期五就到安帕瓦住一個晚上。想要住比較高級的旅館民宿的話，可以找離水上市場有一些距離的旅館，選擇相當多。可是我首要考慮的重點就是要住在河邊，~~直接走出大廳就可以跳下水游泳~~。（也不用這麼融入當地生活吧？）

最後我選擇的這間民宿叫At Casa Guesthouse Amphawa，在Agoda搜尋的時候就覺得這間民宿看起來充滿了浪漫的異國情調，我訂了兩間雙人房，含早晚餐只要大約台幣$3900，價格相當可愛。果然，這次的住宿體驗讓我相當滿意。

We lived in Amphawa on the first day we arrived in Thailand on Friday. You can have more choices to find a hostel away from the floating market. But I want to live by the river so that I can jump into the water when I want to swim.
Haha! Just kidding. I am not too integrated into their local life.

I reserved two two-bedrooms at At Casa Guesthouse Amphawa which I found on Agoda, two rooms including breakfast and dinner for about 3900 Baht. I think it’s quite a good price, especially I do have wonderful living experience in this hostel this time.

source：At Casa

安帕瓦民宿最新房價查詢或訂房看這裡：Agoda

購買曼谷當地旅遊行程或按摩活動門票等看這裡：Klook

交通

去曼谷自由行可以考慮購買一日遊的行程，如果喜歡一次遊覽好幾處的朋友，參加這種行程可以同一天參觀丹能莎朵水上市場、美功鐵道市場和安帕瓦水上市場。美功鐵道市場罕見的鐵道旁小販雲集的特殊景象，蠻值得去見識一下。可惜我當時去的時間，美功鐵道市場正好關閉維修一陣子，所以與這個頗具特色的當地集市緣慳一面。選擇一日遊行程就不需要考慮交通問題，只要在指定時間地點集合，剩下的旅行社都會安排好，懶得動腦筋的話這也不失為一個省麻煩的旅遊方式。

我們選擇了自行搭mini van前往，現在搭乘mini van的地方已經不是我當初去的位置，所以我就不跟大家詳細介紹了。單程車票$80Baht，不過因為我們一行四人都帶了20吋的行李箱，所以多收了一個人的票錢來堆放我們的行李。坐mini van1個半小時其實不是很舒服，但是想要體驗自由行的樂趣，擁有自由支配的時間，有點小小的不方便還是得忍耐一下了。

照片的左側兩位是我在車上認識的兩個從其他城市來旅遊的泰國朋友，這麼長時間的車程的確挺無聊的，小小的位置睡覺也不舒服。還好這位先生的英文還算不錯，聊聊天時間比較容易打發。

There are many travel packages for one day you can buy from the travel agency. If you prefer to visit several travel spots in one day, you can buy the package for Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Maeklong Railway Market, and Amphawa Floating Market. You don’t need to worry about the traffic if you buy the one day package. It’s a good way for lazy people.

We took a minivan to go there. 80Baht for each person. They asked us to buy one more ticket for our luggage.

The left two people in the picture are Thailand tourists from other city. We met on the bus. It’s lucky that we can chat with English so that It’s not too boring to take a bus for one and a half hours.

星期五的安帕瓦下午3、4點就會開始熱鬧起來，建議大家可以早一點來，先參加搭船參觀寺廟的行程。一趟遊船行程大約2~3小時，每個人60Baht，會讓大家上岸參觀4座寺廟，拍拍照買買紀念品。走在水上市場就會看到遊船停在河邊招攬客人，船滿就隨時開船，不用擔心還要事先買票。搭乘長尾船在水道中穿梭，想來就是個難忘的異國體驗。

Tourists accumulate at Amphawa after 3 p.m. You can come earlier and take a boat tour. It will take 2~3 hours, 60 Baht for each person.

They will let you go ashore to visit four temples so that you can take pictures and buy souvenirs. Those long-tail shuttles stop by the river to wait for guests. You can join them as long as they have seats. It’s convenient that you don’t have to buy the ticket in advance.

I think it will be an unforgettable exotic experience to take the boat trip.

住宿

原本預計2點就到這邊，check-in之後剛好可以趕上遊船行程。但是我們之前的行程有些延誤，到這裏已經4點多，自由行就是常常會因為對環境不熟悉而多花了許多時間。At Casa 在民宿的最尾端，下車後要一路穿過水上市場，雖然途中經過的店面誘惑力很大，但是在一個人生地不熟的地方，拖著累贅的行李箱，什麼逛街的情緒都沒有，生怕找不到落腳處。

後來一位當地人看到我們驚慌的神色，過來詢問我們，很「熱心」的幫我們引路，沒想到到了之後卻伸手跟我們要了小費。原本正感動當地人熱情伸手援助，突然聽到要小費，感激之情立刻打折一半。不料走到櫃台才知道根本不是這家民宿。熱情的引領根本就是一場徹頭徹尾的欺騙。
雖然只是貪點小便宜拗個小費，大家出門在外還是提高一點警覺為好。

還好我們真正的目的地距離也不遠了，帶著忐忑的心終於還是找到了今晚暫時的家。

圖片是At Casa 美麗的入口，猶如隱藏於森林的羊腸小徑，有些隱密，難怪連當地人也搞不清楚。

We planned to get here at 2 p.m. so that we can take the boat trip on time. But unexpected accidents happened all the time on independent travel. We arrived at 4 p.m.

At Casa is at the end of the floating market. We had to walk all the way through the market with heavy luggage which made us have no mood to stop by those attractive small shops.

One local person was enthusiastic to help when he saw us panic. We didn’t expect that he asked for tips when he led us to the hostel. And we finally found that he led us to the wrong hostel.

Fortunately, our real destination is not far away, we finally found our temporary home tonight.

The picture is the beautiful entrance of At Casa which looks like the trail hiding in the forest. No wonder even the local people can’t find the right way.

我們的房間在3樓，搬著沈重的行李爬窄小的木梯，對於城市人稍稍有些辛苦（誰叫我們都是一群肉雞）。

很有趣的一點是check-in之後民宿主人會給每間房間一把大頭鎖，出入房間要自己用鎖將房門鎖起來，感覺有一種古老的情懷呀！只不過安全問題就難免比較不足一些。

好不容易進了房間，頓時倦意全消。這間民宿的房間在安帕瓦靠河岸的民宿中算是相當大的。有個小區域放了可愛的沙發，可以坐在那裏小憩。浴室也相當大，是開放式的淋浴間，還有晾貼身衣物的架子，相當貼心。

浴室外另備一套洗漱設備，兩個人早上不用搶地方刷牙。

上網訂不熟悉的民宿最怕訂到圖片與實際不符或髒亂不堪的房間，看到我們的房間，總算鬆了一口氣。

古老民宿畢竟無法跟豪華飯店相比，建議大家還是自己帶拖鞋浴巾等個人衛生用品比較方便。

Our rooms are on the third floor. It’s a little bit hard for an urbanite to climb narrow wooden ladders carrying heavy luggage.

It’s interesting that the host will give us a big lock for each room to lock up the room when you leave. It’s a kind of old feeling.

The room is quite large compared to other hostels beside the river. We all feel relax after we see the comfortable room.

There is a lovely sofa on the corner of a small area where you can take a rest. The bathroom is large with an open shower, as well as drying clothes shelf which is quite intimate. There is another facility for washing face and hand outside the bathroom. It’s convenient when you are in a rush in the morning.

The old house is not as convenient as a luxury hotel. It’s recommended that you still need to bring your own slippers and bath towels and other personal hygiene products.

樓梯間的小角落也是信手捻來皆是風景。坐在這裏發呆，彷彿舊日時光在此凝結，從此再也不需管人世間的喧囂。

The small corner of the staircase even comes in the beautiful scenery. Sitting here in a daze, as if the old days in this condensation, you no longer need to care about the world’s hustle and bustle.

當初挑上At Casa這間民宿，就是迷上了這個布置典雅又帶著異國風情的大廳。坐在這裡，吹著河面上吹拂來的徐徐涼風，所有的燥熱暑氣全部煙消雲散。長毛爸說他好想在這裡住上幾天幾夜，三兩好友坐在這裡暢談一整晚，真要是如此，恐怕就再也不願回去繁忙的日常生活了。

The reason I decide to live in At Casa is that I am fascinated by the elegant and exotic hall. Sitting here, the cool river wind blows slowly, all the hot summer heat evaporates. My husband says he wants to live here for a couple of days, chatting with friends for the whole night. If so, I would never want to go back to my busy daily life.

早餐與晚餐店家都提供了小小的自助吧，食物沒有特別美味，僅供填飽肚皮。

They offer a little buffet for breakfast and dinner. The food is not particularly delicious, just to fill the belly.

想要嘗試更多泰國當地小吃，可以跟在河道上划著長尾船販賣小吃的的船家點東西，包括一些炒河粉粿條、烤海鮮等，都有當地特殊的調味方式。船家會將食物放在漁網裏，用長長的竹竿遞過來，遊客只需將食物取出將錢放入漁網，就完成了交易，是個很有趣的交易過程。

或是也可以走出水上市場，外面就有一個相當熱鬧的夜市，有吃有喝，就跟逛台灣的夜市一般，有趣得緊。

You can order some food from the boatman paddling the boat. They sell rice noodles, grilled seafood, and other local food which seasoned with special local flavor.

The boatman will put food in the net and pass them with a long bamboo pole. You just take the food and put money into the net to complete the transaction. It’s a very interesting process.

You can also walk outside the floating market. There is a busy night market with lots of food and drink, just like the night market around Taiwan.

吃完飯我們到底去了什麼好玩的地方，請大家鎖定下回的文章與大家分享。

If you want to see where we go after dinner, Please stay tuned for later posts. Please upvote this post if you like it. You can follow me for more interesting posts.

安帕瓦水上市場最新房價優惠請看這裡：Agoda